Monday, September 28, 2009

Relocated Reporting: Kamakura, Yoyogi and Ueno.

Picture 8

For Temple News


I never thought it possible to fight the urge to fall asleep while standing in a crowded subway car, but after partying from dusk to dawn in Shinjuku, I found a way. My body twitched and jolted to reel my brain back into consciousness when I came dangerously close to dozing off and missing my stop on the subway.

It was 10 a.m., and I had seized the opportunity of a five day weekend — the government mandates a few national holidays a year because Japanese people work so hard they never take a day off — to travel an hour south of Tokyo to Kamakura, a coastal city rooted in Buddhism that the shogun Minamoto Yorimoto named capital of Japan’s military government in 1192.

Windsurfers dot the water off the coast of Kamakura during the five-day weekend.

Several thousand Japanese people had the same idea. I gave up on reading city maps and followed the throngs of visitors crowding suburban Kamakura’s cozy sidewalks. They led me to Hasedera temple.

Jizo, pictured above at the Hasederae Temple, is a Buddhist deity who protects women in childbirth, stillborn children and travelers is popular among the Japanese. He is often adorned with a dead child's clothing to protect them in the afterlife.

Zochoten, one of four Shintenno who protect Buddhism, stands guard with a halberd (hooked spear) at the Hasedera temple in Kamakura.

Built on the slope of a mountain trail, Hasedera is a compound of innumerable Buddhist temples, scattered among candy-colored pedals and fluttering velvet purple butterflies. The highest point of Hasedera overlooks the coastline, and the sight of tiny parasails gliding on crystalline waves drew me to the beach, where I made friends with some Japanese kids my age who were celebrating the holiday with yaketori, Asahi beer and jet skiing.






The round trip to Kamakura only cost a little more than $25. Tokyo is the world’s most expensive city to live in, so it is imperative to look for bargains. For example, Yoyogi Park hosts free international themed festivals every Sunday. Last Sunday was Vietnamese-themed, and I enjoyed a hip-hop performance straight out of Ho Chi Minh city on the stage at Yoyogi and ate curry chicken kabob and pad Thai noodles for less than $10.

Vietnamese hip hop artist DJ Samurai invites the crowd on stage for his free performance at Yoyogi park's weekly international festival.

Then again, Yoyogi Park is a festive place regardless of the occasion. I once saw a drum circle, several dozen teens dressed up as video game characters practicing for a choreographed dancing video and public saxophone lessons all within a half hour span there.

But my favorite fixture at Yoyogi is the Tokyo Rockabilly Club. Each Sunday these smooth cats roll into Yoyogi in their pink Cadillac wearing black leather tights and grease-slicked hair to dance to the tunes of Chuck Berry and his Japanese counterparts. They only rest from their jumping high kicks and full front splits to re-comb their hair and pour more beer down each other’s throats.

The Tokyo Rockabilly Club show off their full splits and dance moves every week at Yoyogi park.

Near Ueno Kōen, another free public park sprinkled with Buddhist Temples and shrines, is the Yanaka cemetery for infants. Yanaka is adorned with 84,000 statues and representations of the Buddhist deity Jizō, guardian of stillborn infants, women in child birth and travelers. He must be watching over me on my Japanese journey because I seem to uncover yet another treasure whenever I lose myself.




Yokota Kazunori of Nakano's Grabaka gym pauses between training to field questions from the Japanese press on the eve of his fight against Ryan Schultz at Sengoku: Eleventh Battle on September 23. Yokota won by knockout in the first round.


The locals celebrate the silver week national holiday with shrine parade in Akasaka.


Electronics store in Akihibara, Tokyo's electric city.


Japanese nationalists protest against foreigners in Akihibara.


Millions of people cross the main intersections in Shibuya.


Water lillies, Ueno.


Indian festival, Yoyogi Park.


Thursday, September 24, 2009

Tokyo Battle Sport

9.23.09: Sengoku Tenth Battle
Saitama Super Arena

Billed as USA Vs. USA, Indiana's Dan Hornbuckle continued winning streak with a blistering second-round knockout of Minnesota Mixed Martial Arts Academy's Nick Thompson.




UFC veteran Joe Doerksen gets some air time in an awkward exchange against Takenori Sato. Doerkson won by knockout in the second round.

Yoshida Dojo's Maximo Blanco ducks under a high kick thrown by Tetsuya Yamada. Blanco won by TKO in the second round.


Six-foot-four, 300-pound Antonio "Bigfoot" Silva of American Top Team made easy work out of Jim York with a submission via arm triangle choke.

In the only fight to reach a judge's decision on the main card, Yoshida Dojo's Makoto Takimoto outlasted durable South Korean Jae Sun Lee.


Grabaka's Yokota Kazunori knocked out Team Quest's Ryan Schultz with fluid movement and crisp striking in the first round.





Olympic Judo silver medalist Hiroshi Izumi surprised many, including his opponent Antz Nansen, by straying from his grappling roots to stand and strike against kickboxing champion Antz Nansen. Both men made their MMA debut in Sengoku's main event.




9.19.09 Makuuchi Division Sumo Tournament
Kokugikan, Tokyo






The yokozuna celebrates his victory with the bow dance at closing ceremony.


Friday, September 18, 2009

City Lights


For Temple News

Thin vapors of breath escaped in heaves from the furnace of my lungs, dissipating into the jeweled midnight sky. The glow of the full moon illuminated the Martian landscape and its red and black volcanic chunks. Looming above me at 12,388 feet sat the seemingly insurmountable Mount Fuji. Seven grueling hours of climbing later, I collapsed at Fuji’s summit to witness Japan’s rising sun emerge from a bed of clouds – and it was only my first weekend in Japan.



Tokyo can easily be a sensory bombardment, disorienting and overwhelming to an outsider. Familiar land marks by day morph into nearly unrecognizable neon-lit creatures by night. People sprint down the streets at all hours. The flashing lights and allure of the Tokyo nightlife attracts swarms of people like moths flying around a lamp post.


People hurry around the Kabichiko red light district in Shinjuku prefecture, seen above. Below, a man sleeps between a subway stop on a corner of Shinjuku.

The Shinjuku prefecture is the main artery to Tokyo’s throbbing pulse. Shinjuku houses the world’s busiest subway station. More than 3 million people cross through the Shinjuku station each day. Hidden in the shadows of Shinjuku’s skyscrapers, behind the kaleidoscopic blur of red light district, is a maze of alleys known as Golden Gai, crammed with bars no bigger than walk-in closets. Locals, seeking an escape from the city’s dizzying size and tempo, flock to these intimate dives to relax after work.

I wandered into Golden Gai by chance. There is no such thing as being lost in Tokyo. Everything has its own place and time, somewhere, waiting to be discovered. From ramen shops, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples to international nightclubs, sushi restaurants and karaoke bars – Tokyo’s golden goose has laid her precious eggs at every corner of the sprawling metropolis for urban explorers to feast upon. One semester in Tokyo may only be enough to grasp a basket's worth of Japan's treasures, but I hope to at least capture through my words and images what can only be experienced.


Ancient tradition merges with modernity in Tokyo. Above, a Shinto shrine overlooks the Akasaka financial district of Minato-Ku, Tokyo.


A view of the Tokyo Tower from a public stairwell.

View of the skyscrapers in Shinjuku from the Tokyo Tower, the tallest building in Japan.

How to eat cheap in Tokyo: make friends with Ramen.